Caves. There is something about a cave that draws you in: dark, damp, cool, anticipation, unknown. Pair that experience with a great winery and you know something great is about to occur. To find one just around the corner, well, that is just plain exciting.
Our first wine cave experience took place on our first trip to France a few years into our marriage. It was a trip where our eyes were opened to a wonderful culture where they appreciated food, wine, cheese & dessert unlike anything we had yet experienced in our young lives. Our travel agent booked us at the charming and historic Chateau de Chissay in the Loire Valley. Mary loves castles and this was a much-anticipated lodging choice. What we didn’t expect was how this experience would change our view of food, wine and travel. Dinners were dressed affairs with 5 course, wine paired meals - nothing like we had ever experienced before. The French staff took a shine to these two kids and walked us through our meals. Fromage cart? Sure! Which one? Uhhhh…Here sir, try these twenty! We were hooked on cheese for life! Would you like to visit the caves and see the wine? You bet! Natural limestone caves originally carved for safety, escape, cool food storage and wine. Lots of dusty bottles of wine! Not sure we could afford any of those bottles, but the idea was planted that something special was to be stored in the earth.
Jump forward a couple decades - a new life & business in wine country and remembrances of one thing that makes wine special - caves. We recently had the opportunity to partake in a special tasting at Star Lane Winery, located in the Eastern part of Santa Barbara wine country’s Happy Canyon AVA. It was a surprisingly storied piece of property that gained its name during prohibition when you could purchase a bottle of special “olive oil” which was code for booze or “hooch” as it was called. The winery is a magnificent multistory building that is a gateway to some wonderful, modern caves! When considering building their wine business, the owners, Jim and Mary Dierberg, set about a 250 year plan for their wines and that included proper cave storage. Diving deep into the San Rafael mountainside, these caves have only begun to store wonderful wines from the adjacent vineyards of Star Lane, some of which we will be including in your Fall shipment. The Dierberg tasting room and vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA are home to their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay varietals.
We start with a beautifully bright, balanced Sauvignon Blanc. In a white Bordeaux style, Tyler added a bit of Semillon to give the wine added dimension. I think this also increases the variety of food you can pair with it. Fresh, palate-cleansing citrus combines synergistically with clean minerality. This is one of our favorite Sauvignon Blancs from the Santa Ynez Valley!
Next up is a classic Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir from the Drum Canyon vineyard which is at the Dierberg tasting room, right off the 246 on the way to Lompoc. Due to the warm weather, a bit of stem inclusion was used to balance out the dark red fruit notes. This is followed by some nice earthy spiciness, wrapping up with a smooth, elegant finish.
We think Star Lane is producing some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon in Santa Barbara County – a thought echoed by our friends in the wine business. We really like how the Happy Canyon Cabs take a different approach to Napa Cabs, and let the grapes shine through without overwhelming oak notes. Tyler incorporated some minor quantities of Bordeaux varietals into the 2017 Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon to increase the complexity, including Cabernet Franc (5%), Petite Verdot (5%), Merlot (4%), and Malbec (1%). Like the Pinot Noir, this vintage is a bit more fruit-forward given the warm 2017 season, and showcases red and blueberry fruit with “cool coastal sage” notes of complexity as well as elements of cocoa and some earthiness. With 35% new French oak, tannins are present just enough for that balanced, lasting finish. Tasting beautifully now with the power to last 10-15 years or more.
Please enjoy these wonderful wines with our best wishes!
Cheers,
Mike and Mary